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Glad you found some inspiration! I loved the challenge of a completely knock-down pattern. If you put a bottom in it make sure it's reinforced, as the dirt can get quite heavy! I'd also recommend lining it somehow, with some drainage holes. The wood will last much longer.

@@SkyValleyStudio Yes, I have started to construct a similar style planter and followed your recommendations for a liner and reinforced bottom. Thanks!

We bought heavy duty rubber cups for the feet. We still get a bit of vibration with unbalanced loads. I’d recommend a lip or trim piece in front to keep the machines from walking off the pedestals for those times you don’t realize the load is imbalanced. Or screw the cups to the top before putting the machines in place. That may work even better.

I have an aversion to power tools. Especially a router, unless it’s in my PantoRouter. More than once I’ve had wood go flying off the router table. Just a little too aggressive.

Excellent point and spot on! I’ve removed most of them entirely because they sneak out like that. Safety FIRST!!

Thanks for the feedback! And for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.

Easy answer. I rarely use my miter saw. The band saw is safer, especially for small pieces. Try cutting 1/4” slices on a miter saw. Also, the band saw removes about 1/16” material even after planing smooth. The miter saw will be closer to 1/8” or more.

Have you tried emailing Mac Sheldon personally? I’ve gotten no thing but fantastic response from them. If you are going thru Wood raft it may be an entirely different story.

Thank you very much! I enjoyed making this for a quilt maker's kitchen.

Just a quick pin nail hold. Glue and clamps are fine too.

Thanks, Two Captains! Great tag, BTW.

Shellac in this case is simply “sanding sealer”. If poly is coming off in sheets, it’s probably the lack of sanding be l sufficiently between coats. Poly needs the surface roughed up between every coat in order for it to stick. Thanks for the compliment and feedback.

Oh. And if you read Flexner on Finishing you’ll see where this concept comes from. I get a much more even stain I’d I shellac first, and a much more even surface as the alcohol raised the grain, but the shellac fills the pores slightly.

I used what I had. I tried a hand stapler but it didn’t have enough power. Don’t recall off hand what I used, but I thought I addressed that - perhaps in an earlier video in the series. Start with the one on the seat frame and go from there.

Look at “Under the Leather”.

Thanks, eries759! More to come!

Fico contente por conseguirem retirar alguma coisa dos meus vídeos, apesar de não ter a tradução portuguesa! Obrigada pelo vosso apoio!

I’m sure that would work, but the thick leather may not be very pliable. Certainly good for sling type chairs. Good luck! Hope it goes well.

LOL. Yeah. That extra helping hand is pretty funny. Comes in “handy” once in awhile.

Use just enough glue so there is very little squeeze out. Use a card scraper to clean the surface of remaining glue. Or use hide glue, which cleans up very easily in the gummy state. Kind of like rubber cement.

@@SkyValleyStudio I’ll try the hide glue since I’m about to set inlay into a large walnut charcuterie board. Thanks for the tip!

@ramsayholmes4913 Your inlay should be proud of the surface slightly anyway, and needs to be sanded or planned or scraped down anyway. If you are super concerned about penetration and you’re using oil and wax on the board go ahead and do that before you cut out for inlay. Just don’t soak it. The wax will keep the glue from penetrating. Your cuts will be fresh wood.

That works be perfect! I shouldn’t have assumed everyone would have my file. Save time by doing all one direction first, then flip the file and do the other tooth direction. Good luck!

Happy New Year! We’ll have new videos coming out soon. I don’t have a Blacker stern chair video, but have you seen our series on the Gamble House Chair (our version)?

You’re welcome! Let us know if there’s something specific you’d like to see published.

Good catch! Sometimes you use what you have! My bench chisels are non existent. My mortise chisels are always sharp (but so are the sides!!).

I didn’t see much out there on string inlay, and it can truly enhance the finished product. Thought it was time for information! Thanks for watching!

Glad you found it helpful. That’s what my channel is about. Sharing, learning, and teaching as I go.

You are welcome! I use it every time I have mutters to do. They end up a perfect match with no rough saw marks. I can sneak up on the second (opposite) and one shaving at a time.

Sounds very detailed! Hope this helps. Feel free to post some of your work here.

See my possible mod notes to make it a 90 degree as well as a 45 miter.

Good eye! I always wonder is people look to see what logo wear I have on. Sad too see ATOC go. (I’m an International Commissaire, which sometimes gets in the way of woodworking and producing videos.)

Lol. And here I thought I’d win the Husband lottery! Always good to have a video editor!

I have that plane, too, but it’s not as versatile as the plane skid. It has its uses and it’s a beautiful toy, but doesn’t get nearly as much use.

Thanks! I’ll have to remember that. Makes perfect sense.

Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful.

I’d actually thought about it, but wouldn’t you know, we don’t have a decent rubber band in the house! Just some very old ones that don’t stretch without breaking! Good suggestion though.

Cutting inlay requires a finer tooth set than thicker wood. Often, I’m cutting pieces that are no more than a half an inch thick and sometimes less. This means I need to have at least 6 to 12 TPI. Tensioning the blade correctly is necessary, as is having a good sharp blade. I have a video on sharpening blades that may help. Setting the guide blocks or bearings correctly both above and below is also critical. As for the brand, I’ve had acceptable success with Timberwolf, but better success with a ennox blade. My go-to general blade is an alternating 3/4 slip tooth Woodslicer.

You are very welcome! Thanks for the support!

Hit hide glue is a little more versatile in that you mix it for the particular application. But if the woods is cold (think winter garage) it cools the glue too fast. I still prefer it over old brown glue. Just a choice.

@@SkyValleyStudio thank you for the information

Glad you found it helpful! The bandsaw is one of my most frequently used power tools. Much more than the tablesaw. And it’s much safer in general, too.

One of my better series, IMO. There are other parts to it, too, starting with the tools needed. And a good one on the layers “Under the Leather”

The slightly proud accents is something the Greene brothers did. It adds visual appeal and begs to be touched. Thanks for the compliment!

Let me know how it works for you or if there is an improvement to make - aside from adding that most files are not by-directional!

Thank you! Let me know if there is something in particular you’d like to see.

This was cedar. Removing the nose guard would remove the clamp on that end of the bar, and it wouldn’t work well horizontally. The small mill Granberg has is meant to cut vertically, slabbing off the sides.